One-Day Walking Tour itinerary with Neapolitan Song Links
This tour, starting from the coastline of Naples, takes you through the streets, cafes, and shops where you can observe the lifestyle of the Neapolitans. From the breathtaking views to the coffee, from the pizzas to the architecture, from the music to the history and legends, it leads you slowly towards the ancient center of Naples, the oldest settlement. For those who arrive in the morning and continue to Sorrento or Capri in the evening, you can easily follow the route I take my guests and friends by clicking on the Google Maps links below. The links in the blue boxes are there to accompany you with famous songs of Naples, related to the places you will see and the stories I narrate.
One day walking itinerary in Naples
1 - Egg Castle - Castel dell'Ovo The castle located by the seaside, Castel dell'Ovo (Egg Castle - according to legend, the castle stands thanks to an egg underneath), is the oldest castle in the city. It is possible to climb to its terrace and enjoy a view of Naples from the sea. Next to the castle there is Borgo Marinaro, which may appear as a touristy place with its cafes and restaurants but is actually a neighborhood where fishermen reside. During summer evenings, the cafes and bars here become very lively. However, due to being somewhat touristy, I wouldn't recommend it for dining. https://goo.gl/maps/KrQtWSoQDqB8jeTQA
Egg Castle and the fishermen's neighbourhood Borgo Marinaio beneath
2 - Piazza Vittoria Walk along the seaside from the Egg Castle to the Square Piazza Victoria, where you can watch the fishermen's stalls and the seagulls around them in the early morning. https://goo.gl/maps/1uBBUTBXxubtE63m6
Naples seaside, in the morning, is a spontaneous fish market like in the ancient times.
3- Piazza dei Martiri This square is in the Chiaia District which is one of the most elegant zones in Naples and the square zone is considered the most expensive in the City. The 4 lion statues in the square symbolize the uprising of the people of Naples against the Nazis and the liberation of Naples in 4 days. Naples is the first city rebelling against the Nazi's as well as the first liberated from them. The side streets on your left as you go up with the sea behind, are full of boutiques and restaurants. These little streets make up the Baretti zone as they turn into a street of bars after 20-21. The most important one is called Vicoletto Belledonne, meaning, the narrow street of beautiful women. Baretti is called also the zone of beautiful women in the city "belledonne". https://goo.gl/maps/SPowBh9ArnsYxcNF8
Piazza dei Martiri, Square with Lions, symbolizing the liberation from the Nazi's is the richest part of Naples.
Right on this square 2. You can listen to one of the most famous songs about the world war, O surdato 'nnammurato' https://youtu.be/LIDB44QXzbE Although the song originated as a romantic poem written by a soldier in love during the war, Napoli fans unite and sing it together in the stadium during matches to express their deep love for their team.
4- Via Chiaia https://goo.gl/maps/ogYR6g1eL35kahng9 Via Chiaia is a lively pedestrian street with boutiques and cafes that leads from Piazza Martiri to the main square. You will see a beautiful bridge in the middle of the street. Ponte di Chiaia, (Chiaia bridge) There is an elevator at the foot of the bridge. Since you change neighborhoods when you go up, this elevator serves as a vertical means of transportation for Neapolitans. It used to have a cost of but now it is free of charge. Alternatively, if you don't want to wait in the queue, you can use the stairs.
If you go upstairs and it is lunch time, you can try to eat at the restaurant called Osteria della Mattonella. Since 1978, the same family has been running this restaurant, where you will feel like you are eating at the house of your grumpy Neapolitan grandmother. The food is according to ancient Neapolitan recipes and the prices are good enough to delight you. I recommend you to go early as there will be a lot of crowds and queues after 13.15. OSTERIA DELLA MATTONELLA: https://g.page/osteriadellamattonella?share If you're short on time, don't worry, there are other typical places on the route or many alternatives where you can eat on the go. Towards the end of Via Chiaia, you will see the 'Antica Pizzeria Brandi'. The importance of this pizzeria, which has a balcony decorated with flags, is that the first pizza was made here. Although pizza is not preferred nowadays, it is traditional to take a photo with the inscription that pizza was born here 100 years ago on the wall outside. ANTICA PIZZERIA BRANDI: https://g.page/PizzeriaBrandi?share
Chiaia Bridge on Via Chiaia, where you can climb with a free elevator to a different neighbourhood and try a famous typical restaurant.
Where Pizza Margherita was born, Pizzeria Brandi
5- Piazza del Plebiscito https://goo.gl/maps/ov4aR4NYTtBDfwY97 This is the main square of the City, in one side there is the RoyalPalace and the oldest Opera house in Europe, San Carlo Theatre and on the other side there is the Basilica di San Francesco di Paolo. Since it requires hours to visit the Palace and Theater, it is not feasible within this one day tour. Instead you can visit the Basilica di San Francesco di Paola pretty quickly. If you have more than a day in Naples, you should absolutely visit The Royal Palace and San Carlo Teatre. I even recommend instead of visiting San Carlo Teatre in a guided tour, to create the opportunity and go for a spectacle and you will have an experience that you will remember for a life time. You can purchase a concert ticket on their website below or just purchase at the ticket shop under the theatre, https://www.teatrosancarlo.it/en/pages/booking-purchase.html (if you are on a budget, choose the seats in BALCONATA 5 and 6, try to get the central seats they will cost you around 30-40 eur)
Going to the other side of the square, towards the sea, you will witness the view of Santa Lucia. In the early 1900s, the Naples Port was here and this was the last view the immigrant Neapolitans saw before saling to America, while waving from the ship. Santa Lucia, a very famous song, actually a sad song about an immigrant who realizes that he will never see his Naples again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRtpc0qDg2g
In this square, you can take a coffee break at Gambrinus, the oldest café in Naples. Gran Caffe Gambrinus: https://goo.gl/maps/bZKLK6psxmPwi4Tm6 If you don't want the bill to come too much, you should drink coffee inside, standing up, like the Neapolitans.
Piazza del Plebiscito, Basilico di San Francesco di Paola
Caffe Gambrinus, operative since 1860 served also to Oscar Wilde and Ernest Hemingway
A cup of coffee song: A TAZZA E CAFFE from 1918, which compares the woman he loves to coffee, a very masculin approach: "She is like coffee, she is cold as time goes on, she is bitter and sweet on the bottom, and if you don't stir, the sweetness doesn't come out." https://www.youtube.com/watch?=1jSARURHgUM
You can take the road down from the main square and see the Maschio Angioino Castle (New Castle) in Piazza Municipio. The Castle was founded in the 13th tby French and then in the 16th century renewed by Spanish, with a new white marble facade. Since the choice of white marble on the facade didn't convince many Neapolitans, during those days, arguments about the architectural choice prevailed, similar to how we criticize the pyramid in front of the Louvre. A crocodile skeleton was found during excavations in the ditch around it, confirming its fabulous/mythical aspect. Not enough time though to visit the Castle and climb the panoramic terrace for 6 eur so just take pictures from outside so proceed passing through the Galleria Umberto and reach Via Toledo. Position for Maschio Angioino or Castel Nuovo (New Castle) https://goo.gl/maps/iD8wpFDcPEDrncr78 Galleria Umberto: https://goo.gl/maps/qxd1sKs9hBsrQ3Xn8
Maschio Angioino, the New Castle
6- Via Toledo or Via Roma https://goo.gl/maps/X3Kfdu9AvsF8mRWG8 Via Toledo is the most popular street of shopping in Naples, a point of reference. a 1,2 km road between Piazza Dante and Piazza Trieste e Trenta (a smaller square just behind the Main Saquare) is called in two ways and neither of them creates confusion. The road lies between the historical center and the modern center of the city. Via Toledo is the original name, the surname of the vicerey who commissioned the road construction in 16th century. After the reunion of Italy, the name changed to Via Roma as a reference to the new capital. Everybody has a preference to call this road in the way they like and it never creates any confusion as the road is unique. Do not miss Pizzeria Tutino " Crunch" (street number 251) for a quick pizza or Neapolitan snacks to go. You will love to watch their service style with a basket going down from the first floor where the kitchen is. To taste the legendary Neapolitan dessert "Sfogliatella" the best place is Pintauro (street number 275), a historical place all covered with marble.
Quartieri Spagnoli, the Spanish Quarters, 20 years ago was a place of crime where you couldnt enter to walk around now a must see place
The narrow streets on the left/upper side of Via Toledo lead to the Spanish quarters, a proud neighbourhood densely populated with a long history that starts back to the settlement of Spanish soldiers in the area. Prostitution, crime long centuries preailed in the area. A densely populated area with cheerful, colourful people and places is a secure place now to discover and witness the real Neapolitan culture. Prostitution, poverty and crime prevailed in the area for many centuries. Despite its historical challenges, today the Spanish Quarters have transformed a cheerful and colorful place. It is now one of the best places to witness the vibrant and authentic Neapolitan culture. If you are still hungry or you need a home made coffe, then ring the bell of the little house in Vico Lungo Gelso 40 (just the parallel of Via Toledo in Quertieri Spagnoli). Your Neapolitan aunt Nunziatina will "Il basso" (the lower floor) o’ Vascio in Neapoletan. They are found in all Naples city center, these little houses with one or two rooms have with a direct door between their living room and street. Most of the time you will observe elderly people sitting in front of their houses on the street and chatting.
Listen to Tammurriata Nera in the back streets of Via Toledo. It is one of the famous songs that humorously describes how Neapolitans came out of World War II, their social situation and the torment they suffered. "A baby was born. Whether you name it Peppe or Ciro (one of the most typical male names in Naples), he's still black." ("black" emphasizing the baby's obvious outside marriage nature. Naples in fact is one of the most colour friendly cities in Europe.) The song speaks of the people of Naples who starved during the war and the illegitimate children of women who were forced to have relations with American soldiers in exchange for money. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXMPryOrMhs
7- Piazza del Gesù Nuovo https://goo.gl/maps/jy7Td4yiRtGyEQCaA The starting square of the historical center of Naples, the largest historical center in Europe, all of it declared a UNESCO Heritage site. 'Spaccanapoli' or Decumana, the road that splits Naples into two from south to north, is as straight as a ruler. This is one of the most ancient and continuously used roads in the world, dating back to the Ancient Greeks. As you proceed from the square, you will encounter two distinct churches from different periods, constructed in completely contrasting architectural styles and ideologies: the opulent Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo and the Gothic Santa Chiara Churches. Dating back to 1310, Santa Chiara is the oldest remaining church in Naples and also functions as a monastery. Entrance to both churches is free.
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, Naples Historical Center
You can listen to the Santa Chiara Monastery song as you pass through here. "The Monastery of Santa Chiara, closed within the four walls of the Monastery of Santa Chiara, how many sincere women renounced love and married Jesus." The song expresses the desire of an immigrant Neapolitan to return to Naples for fear of finding a city destroyed by war. "And I am dying with the desire to return to Naples, but what can I do? It scares me to go back..." Munasterio 'e Santa Chiara https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STtSHuuepPs
The obelisk in this square, the heart of ancient Naples, was built in 1656 after the tuberculosis epidemic. Since the 1600s, Naples' noble aristocracy has lived in the square and nearby buildings. In the Museo Cappella Sansevero at the square's back, find the famous Veiled Christ statue. The bottom floor, once Prince Raimondo di Sangro's lab for frightening human experiments, now showcases them. Witness the unsettling experiments by buying tickets online in advance (10 Euros). https://www.museosansevero.it/en/online-tickets The museum at "Palazzo Sansevero" is not very large, so you can explore it in about half an hour. In this significant building where Masons met, a notorious murder happened in the 1590s, still talked about today. Princess Maria D'Avalos, hearing her husband's claim of going hunting, met her lover Fabrizio Carafa in this building. Gesualdo's hunting trap worked; he caught and brutally murdered the lovers, leaving their bodies as a warning for days. Maria D'Avalos, with yellow hair and a black dress, is a ghost seen and heard by many at night in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. Allegedly, as she swiftly moves across, echoes of agonizing screams linger.
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, The heart of Ancient Naples
The song "Malafemmina," not written for Maria D'Avalos but always about a "Bad Woman", is a famous and beloved song written and composed in 1951 by the comedian, poet, and theater and cinema artist Toto, who was also a Neapolitan aristocrat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5VuOakcqNI
9- Via S. Gregorio Armeno https://goo.gl/maps/V9WKe67vssNmVEVc8 The street where Neapolitan artisans' nativity scene shops are located. The tradition of the Christmas tree, which later came from Northern Europe to Italy, was preceded by the presepe. Presepe refers to miniature models that depict the birth of Jesus and the environment of that period. Naples is famous for presepe art, and before Christmas, people from all over Europe flock to this street. Naples not only narrates the birth of Jesus through presepe but has also developed it each year by adding elements from that era. This has allowed observation of changes in costumes, economic activities, and social and cultural developments over centuries. In modern times, miniatures of the most talked-about figures, including politicians and football players, are also created.
Via San Gregorio Armeno
The square at the end of San Gregorio Armeno Street, named San Gaetano, used to be the main square of Naples when it was an Ancient Greek-Roman city known as Parthenope. The columns and stones used in the construction of the churches in the square were taken from demolished Greek-Roman temples. By entering the San Lorenzo Maggiore Church Complex, you can see Roman ruins through the glass floor. For those with time, there is also a descent from here to the underground city of Naples, Napoli Sotterrata. However, you need to buy a ticket and wait for the guided tour schedule. (ticket costs 10 eur)
Complex of San Lorenzo Maggiore and Neapolis Sotterrata
10- Via dei Tribunali https://goo.gl/maps/heoUgrUvAwTtyeUeA Via dei Tribunali, meaning "Street of the Courts," is named so because it leads to a courthouse dating back to the 16th century. When you visit Naples, it's a must-see street filled with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque churches, along with historical buildings. This street, housing remnants from Ancient Greek and Roman Naples, features another entrance to an underground city even more claustrophobic than the San Lorenzo Complex. Napoli Sotterraneo tours are conducted, but it may not be ideal for a day trip due to the guided nature. However, if you're there, you can give it a try. Via dei Tribunali is lined with Naples' best pizzerias. You can grab a quick pizza from Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo or Pizzeria Dal Presidente, or if you have the time and luck to get in, Sorbillo offers a great pizza experience. If you want to try fried pizza, Dal Presidente is the place to go.
Via Dei Tribunali, the best pizzerias are here
Pulcinella, a character representing Naples in the comedy arts, dates back to the 16th century and is encountered everywhere. Despite all his troubles, Pulcinella is always smiling, playing pranks, wandering around with his mandolin, disliking work, and mocking the strong. There's a statue of Pulcinella, believed to bring good luck when you touch his nose, located right at the beginning of the side street across from Sorbillo Pizzeria towards the end of Via Tribunale. The street is called Vico del Fico al Purgatorio. The song is the city of Pulcinella: 'A CITTA' 'E PULLECENELLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EtxSYUCWl8
The Pulcinella statue, with a touchable nose believed to bring luck, and the mural of Sophia Loren, who was born in the town of Pozzuoli in Naples
11- Via Duomo https://goo.gl/maps/1cNBGrT9VJNND5Tq9 Via Napoli'nin koruyucu azizi San Gennaro'ya adanmış şehrin en önemli kilisesi olan Duomo di San Gennaro'da her sene 19 Eylül’de bir mucize gerçekleşir. MS.305 Yılında ölen azizin kanı iki ampulün içinde toz halinde bu katedralin içinde saklanıyor ve yapılan gösterişli bir ritüelle kanının çözülmesi yani mucizenin gerçekleşmesi bekleniyor. Bu olağanüstü olay, Napolililerin Vezüv'ün şiddetli bir patlamasının şehre ulaşmasına karşı San Gennaro'nun mucizevi müdahalesini istedikleri ve elde ettikleri 16 Aralık 1631'den beri tekrarlanıyor. Mucizenin gerçekleşmediği 2016 Yılında Vesuv Yanardağı eteklerinde büyük çaplı yangın ve Ischia Adasında deprem, 1980'de Irpinia Bölgesinde yıkıcı bir deprem, 1973 Yılında Kolera salgını, 1939 ve 1940 Yıllarında 2. Dünya Savaşı ve Vesüv Yanardağının patlaması gerçekleştiğinden, dinine bağlı olan ve bağlı olmayan her Napoli'nin dikkatle izlediği bir olay.
After visiting the Duomo, you can find a taxi to return to the hotel or reach the airport on this road. If you want to reach where you are staying by metro, Museo and Piazza Cavour stations are nearby.
You've probably heard the remix of this song, 'Tu vuò fà l'americano,' first released in 1956. It's about a Napoli resident who aspires to mimic the American lifestyle. The song humorously portrays someone who drinks 'whiskey and soda,' dances to rock and roll, plays baseball, smokes Camel cigarettes, yet still relies on their parents for financial support. It satirically comments on the ongoing process of Americanization amid the persistence of traditional ways of life in the post-war years. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqlJwMFtMCs