NEPAL 10 DAYS itinerary

WITHOUT TREKKING OR HIKING
KATHMANDU, NAGARKOT, BAKHTAPUR, CHITWAN, POKHARA

Since we always thought Nepal was very similar to India, never keen on mountain climbing, and believed there wasn't much to see besides Kathmandu, we never considered traveling to Nepal for years. The devastating earthquake in 2015 and the country's dire state added to our reluctance. That is, until we came across a 4K video on YouTube showcasing the many other places to see in Nepal beyond the Himalayas.
Our curiosity piqued, we began to research and finally organized a 10 days trip. During our travels, we realized that despite having a Hindu heritage, it is a place vastly different from India in every aspect. Its natural beauty extends beyond the Himalayas. In May, we had to return without seeing the Himalayan views due to pollution and haze (read more: When is the best time to visit India?). Instead of the Himalayas, we saw rhinoceroses, went on safaris following the tracks of Bengal tigers, spotted bears, elephants, crocodiles, walked within  the rice fields and rainforests, tried Nepali coffee and tea in medieval city squares, watched monkeys performing acrobatics on Tibetan prayer flags, danced with locals at a magnificent religious ceremony by Phewa Lake during sunset, and were awestruck by the funeral processions attended by huge crowds. Nepal consistently astonished us and after being spellbound, we promised ourselves to return a trekking through villages to witness the breathtaking Himalayan views.

nepal itinerary 

10 days in nepal

1. day- kathmandu

monkey temple

Morning at 9 AM  
Swayambunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) - entrance 200 rp
Instead of walking and climbing the entrance stairs, we took an Idrive cab to reach here from Thamel. On the way out, we descended the stairs and enjoyed watching the cheeky monkeys.
​The temple area is large and may take 1 to 1.5 hours to explore. Not to be missed!

ghats on bagmati

Morning 11:30 AM - free entry
Numerous, malandato, trascurato anche se si vede una volta erano maestosi, the ghats are not very interesting except for a Tin Dewal, Pancha Badi Ghat and Radha Krishna Mandir. Unfortunately there are no names on them and  they are on an abandoned state. we were lucky at the Tin Dewal, we met the owner who is coming from the family of last king Gyanendra and told us a little about the Nepalese history and culture.

Durbar square

Lunch& Afternoon
From the Ghats we couldn't find a taxi so we walked about 15 min. to reach to Durbar Square passing from the Freak Street.
We paid the ticket fee at the entrance of the Square 1000 rp per person (around 11 eur/usd) (find how to extend your Durbar Square ticket for free)
After a lunch with famous "momos" (Nepalese raviolis) in a restaurant terrace looking over Durban Square, we hired a guide understand all the beautiful buildings and temples around us. We negotiated a little and paid the cost of another ticket (1000 rp total) instead of the double he asked initially. It was convenient to see everything in one hour with a guide as it is not easy to read and orient from the guidebook. After the tour we strolled around the same places again and again as they are so beautiful.  

KUMARI GAR

16.30-18.00

Kumari Gar is the place where the living Goddess resides. Behind the beautiful palace facade facing Durbar Square lies a cozy courtyard where tourists are allowed in turns. Visitors are instructed to stop taking pictures and put their phones away. Only when they ensure from the Kumari's balcony that everyone is respecting the rules, Kumari appears for a few minutes.
​Kumari Gar opens its doors only twice a day: from 11:00 to 12:00 and from 16:30 to 17:30.

thamel

Evening

Ason Bazaar walk starts after the Bodhi tree near Kali Temple. Walk until Thamel. Visit the Kaiser Garden Café. The entrance fee to Kaiser Garden is 400 NPR per person, and you can enjoy a drink at sunset. Masala tea costs 350 NPR.
Have a Nepalese dinner at Thamel House Restaurant with traditional music and a spectacle.
Thamel is lively until 21:30, after which live music bars and discos start.​​

2. day  kathmandu - nagarkot

ason market &durbar square

Walk from Thamel to Durbar Square passing by Ason Market. In the early morning  walking through the Ason Market is vibrant and colourful  experience as the farmers selling fresh products and people seeking blessings at the temples. Morning coffee at the Himalaya Java Coffee  a perfect alternative to big coffee chains (serves all types of breakfasts as well) at the Durbar Square with a nice view. 

BAADHAPUR STUPA

Then an Idrive to the famous Baadhapur Stupa (400 rp ride and 400 rp entrance). After the Monkey Temple a little bit dissapointing but spritual atmosphere seekings could still enjoy. Turn around the Stupa like the locals and 3rd floor of the modern building beside the Stupa reserved for prayers and flames. ​

transfer to nagarkot

Always by local Uber app, IDRIVE  1600 rp by a private car to Nagarkot. Trip amazed us with spectacle  rural views,  village life, rice terraces, mountains. Stayed in a homestay a little far from the center of Nagarkot, supposed to have sunrise view on Himalayas, missed it due to the mist and air pollution. Had a little trekking within the village, rice fields and forest. Had a wonderful dinner at our homestay Hotel Village View Nagarkot

​3. day bHaktapur - patan- BHAKTAPUR

transfer to BHAKTAPUR 

The ride from Nagarkot to our hotel in Bhaktapur took 35 minutes by iDrive. 
After checking in, we strolled towards Durbar Square. We had a morning coffee at The Grind Coffee Terrace overlooking Durbar Square.
From the narrow streets full of souvenirs, we arrived at Pottery Square. It was possible to learn how to make pottery; short courses were available, I would loved to!
However, my desire to see more in a limited time overcame my curiosity, and we proceeded to Taumadhi Square and However, our desire to see more in a limited time overcame my curiosity, and we proceeded to There are four amazing squares in the city: Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, Durbar Square, Pottery Square, and Dattatreya Square. Pottery Square is perhaps the least beautiful or interesting, unless you are into the pottery business.
Pottery Square is perhaps the least beautiful or interesting, unless you are into the pottery.
After promising to return by sunset for a drink on one of the many rooftops, we continued to the Dattatreya square.
Honestly, we couldn't choose among the three beautiful squares; each held a different kind of charm.

a short visit to patan

Took an Idrive to reach to Patan (it is shorter if you go from Kathmandu) 750 NPR 30-45 min.
Patan's Durbar Square, we didn't enter but enjoyed the view from The King of Momo's restaurant terrace. It wasn't our favorite in terms of food, but the view was amazing. Since Durbar Squares were becoming familiar by this point, Patan's most interesting thing for us was the Golden Temple.
Golden Temple
The entrance fee is 100 rupees per person, and leather shoes are not allowed inside due to the concept of purity. The 8 year-old-priest and his short ceremony marking the time were fascinating.
He rings a wooden bell every hour, announcing the time by the number of strikes.
According to the tradition, a young boy under 12 becomes the head of this important temple for 30 days, assisted by an elder but still young boy (15-16 years old) who celebrates the most important rituals. This tradition dates back to ancient times. During a war, no one could care for the Buddha statue at the temple except for a young boy sent by his family, with the hope that no soldier would harm a child. After the success of this strategy, young priest tradition started. 

enjoYING
​BHAKTAPUR EVENING

After Patan, we returned to Bhaktapur again via iDrive for the same price of 750 rupees (exploring Patan from Kathmandu is actually better and cheaper!). We were so happy to be back in Bhaktapur and its atmosphere reminiscent of the 1950s. 
We tried the famous  "Juju dhau" literally the King of Yogurt, which is actually The Bhaktapur's special yogurt curd famous in all Nepal.
Then had drinks at Cafe Harati rooftop in the middle of Taumadhi Square, which was very enjoyable to watch lively  evening with men and women strolling around in traditional clothes. 
For dinner, we went to Dewa Lahana, the branch of the famous restaurant in Kirtipur, considered the best Newari restaurant in Nepal.
We finished the day with masala tea on the terrace of Travellers Bistrot at the cozily illuminated Dattatreya Square.

3.rd DAY NOTES: 
BHAKTAPUR 
Bhaktapur joins our list of the world's coziest towns, which includes Cuenca, Ubud, Hoi An, Shangri-La.. The city is surrounded by busy roads, but just entering one of the many city gates feels like time travel. It's like stepping back into ancient times. Here, people wear traditional clothes, and old men gathered under covered stalls curiously observe their surroundings. In the morning, people walk to the temples and make offerings to the deities. Around 5:30 PM, you'll see men playing chess. Traditional weighing vendors and fish and meat sold without refrigeration add to the unique atmosphere.

There are four amazing squares in the city:  Durbar Square, Pottery Square, Taumadhi Square, and Dattatreya Square. Pottery Square is perhaps the least beautiful or interesting, unless you are into the pottery business. Durbar Square is full of tourists, our favorites were Taumadhi Square and Dattatreya Squares. 

To enter the historical city of Bhaktapur you need to pay 1800 NPR per person. It's well spent, as you gain access to 4 amazing squares and stroll around the truly beautiful You can even extend your ticket free of charge for a week. 

PATAN
My husband's original plan was to stay one night in Patan as well. However, I, being the "destroyer deity" of his plans, wanted to see Patan to see if it was worth staying for one more night on our last day before returning home, potentially replacing Kathmandu. As beautiful as Patan is, I won the argument, and my husband agreed that staying there for one night wouldn't be worth it. Our preference was for the chaotic but fascinating Kathmandu for our last night. We strolled around the city's backstreets, finding them quite cozy, though not as cozy as Bhaktapur's.
In Patan, non-Nepalese tourists are charged 1000 NPR  per person only to access beautiful Durbar square, which is still under construction. This fee applies if you enter between 8.00-19.00. Overwhelmed by hot weather, not very proudly, we opted for a lunch at a panoramic terrace restaurant looking over the Durbar Square instead of paying the entrance fee. 

BUS TICKET FROM BHAKTAPUR TO CHITWAN
We contacted Graceful Adventure via WhatsApp for Chitwan buses the next day, and they reserved two seats for us to be paid directly on the bus. We have two options: either a 6:30 AM departure from the Sorakhutte Tourist Bus Park near Thamel or a more convenient 7:25 AM departure from the Baba Petrol Station (as we'll be joining from Bhaktapur.)
​The price of deluxe bus was 850 NPR per person, predicted to be in Chitwan at 12.30 (we arrived at 14.00 :)) 

4. day CHITWAN national park

FROM kATHMANDU TO CHITWAN 

See all the bus information on Nepal Useful Information Page. Upon our arrival in Sauraha, many tuk-tuks await to take you to the center for just 200 rupees.
Sauraha is the right place to stay when visiting Chitwan National Park.
It is a small town with a few side roads branching off a main road that ends at the river.
There are many restaurants and bars along the riverside, which are especially spectacular at sunset.
​During the day, you can spot elephants, deer, monkeys, and even crocodiles across the river.

AFTERNOON
​BICYCLE RIDE 

Since we arrived at 2:00 PM, we have missed some afternoon adventures. However, we rented a bicycle for 200 rupees and explored the surrounding area. The ride from Sauraha to the Elephant Breeding Center is beautiful, offering views of rice fields.
You will observe rural life passing through the Tharu Villages. The Tharu Tribe is famous in Medicine as the tribe that does not catch malaria  despite living in a malaria zone. 

DINNER
​IN SAURAHA

There are many restaurant options, especially the ones by the river, which are quite nice, but we chose Shantika for dinner the first night. We liked the patio and the cute dog, went inside and met the Canadian owner. He also established an Elephant Center as an alternative to the Elephant Breeding Center, whose ethics are questionable. You can book a visit to the elephant center with them and learn a lot about these magnificent animals. 

5. Day chitwan

canoe and
walking tour

Our daily tour began with canoeing on the Rapti River at 7 o'clock. In my opinion, this is quite a late start, as the walking tour became somewhat unbearable due to the hot weather by 11 o'clock.
The shared canoe experience was lovely, with single seating ensuring the experience was enjoyable, although the seats were quite uncomfortable. The Rapti River originates in the central mountains of Nepal, flows into the Napaji River, and eventually merges with the Ganges River. We saw many kinds of birds migrating from Siberia to Tibet, and of course, crocodiles. I especially fell in love with the spontaneous lily flowers on the river. 

 When we got off the canoe, our walking tour began. We come across a rhino eating and relaxing in the water. Since our group only had 6 people, we were able to get really close to the rhino, from a safe position.

jeep safari tour

We had free time for a lunch break from 11 to 12:45, during which we went back to Shantika. For the jeep safari, the small walking groups combined to get on the same jeep. I love jeep safari tours; I can spend hours on a jeep. This was similar to an African safari experience but, unfortunately, with fewer encounters. We saw many monkeys, birds, a sloth bear, elephants, spotted deer, and many other minor animals. However, we weren't lucky enough to see the Bengali Tiger. That's nature, and we knew it, so there were no disappointments. The driver and guide were really careful. We also stopped at the Crocodile Breeding Center farm to see Gharial and Mugger crocodiles, which are endangered species.

sunset and dinner
​

We got back to Saurahu by canoe, and as soon as we arrived, the sunset view captivated us. We stayed at one of the restaurants to enjoy the view. For dinner, we chose another restaurant, popular with the locals, on the main street: Jalapenos. Despite its Mexican name, it serves local cuisine and some pizzas (of course, we didn't try the pizza, being from Naples, we just observed).

SAFARI GUIDE FOR CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK AND PRICES
Your hotel might offer tour packages, but you can also explore options at travel agencies along the main street and riverside in Sauraha Town. If you head to the riverside, independent guides might approach you with potentially cheaper tour options. Be cautious with walking tours, as prices may vary.
We have chosen to get a complete safari package canoe + walking tour + jeep safari from our homestay Rhinoceros Homestay there were many good reviews in internet. Actually we were quite satisfied with the tour and the competency of our guides. 
Here's a breakdown of some park entrance fees and tour costs:
* Park Entrance Fee: 4,000 rupees
* Elephant Breeding Center (ethics debatable): 100 rupees
* Combined morning canoe ride, walking tour, and afternoon jeep tour (group): 6,500 rupees per person
* Private jeep tour (full day): approximately $250 for two people
* Private walking tour (full day): approximately $120 for two people
Bus Journey
Buses to Pokhara and Kathmandu can be booked at hotels, hostels, and homestays. Buses to Pokhara depart at 7:30 AM (sofa luxury) and 8:00 AM (deluxe). Buses to Kathmandu depart at 7:30 AM and 8:30 AM. For full bus guide visit Nepal Useful Information Page.

6. DAY POKHARA

aRRIVAL at 14.30 lUNCH & PEWA LAKE

Our bus departed from Sauraha Chitwan at 7:30 arrived in Pokhara by 14:30.
When we arrived to Pokhara bus station one of the many taxi drivers offered us a ride to our hotel for 300 rupees, which we took.
(Idrive showed 260 NPR)
We had our Dal Bhat Lunch in a restaurant with terrace looking over Pewa Lake. And strolled around the shops on the roads around the lake. Pokhara has good vibes as we have always read and heard about.
.

TAL BARAHI TEMPLE BOAT RIDE

From Barahi Ghat, we hopped on a shared boat for 115 rupees per person to reach the famous Tal Barahi Temple, an important island temple for the Nepalese people on Phewa Lake. While the temple itself wasn't extensive, we soon realized preparations for a sunset ceremony were underway exactly where we took the boat, at the Barahi Ghat.

DAILY AARTI CEREMONY
& ​DINNER

Every evening at around 6 p.m. this spectecular Hinduist ceremony is held with lights, fire, incenses and many other religious instruments.There is always a crowd - mostly locals, some Indian tourists, and even a few Westerners like us.
The atmosphere is truly evocative, a sight and event not to be missed.
​After the ceremony, we strolled along the scenic lake circuit, grabbed Nepalese coffee, and enjoyed dinner at the Marwadi restaurant with lots of Naans and Indian food.
​We finished the evening with some shopping before heading back to our hotel.

6th DAY NOTE:
Don't worry about haggling for boat prices - they're fixed and clearly displayed on large panels.
We also tried to arrange a visit for the day after to the Nepal Blue Mountain Organic Coffee Farm for a tasting session, located about 5 km from the Devil's Cave. The price was 30 USD per person including coffee tasting. 

7. DAY POKHARA

Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave AND devi'S FALL​

​We took an IDrive to visit the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave (from the lakeside for around 360 rupees.)
It is actually both a temple and a cave, and it's considered one of the largest caves in South Asia. While on some blogs was written that it was obligatory to remove shoes, we found it was okay to keep them on during our visit. 
I was more impressed with the colorful stair entrance of the cave till reaching the end of the cave. There is a stunning view through a little natural rock cleft, corrispondes the ultimate part of the Devi's Fall. 

Souvenir shops outside the cave sell pieces of holy stone, and a statue of this near the exit explains the significance of this holy stone in fact being a fossil stone.
All
Devi's Fall, also known as Patale Chhango. The entrance fee is just 100 rupees and shares the same street as the Gupteshwor Cave. I tend to call the name as Devil's Fall, but actually it is Devi's Fall, Devi being the name of a Swiss tourist was tragically swept away here by the current​ while swimming with her husband in 1961. Her body was recovered with difficulty a short distance downstream. This waterfall is most impressive during the rainy season.

​Pokhara Bazaar & Lakeside

A taxi ride from the caves (around 410 rupees) took us to the Pokhara Bazaar which was suggested on internet as things to do in Pokhara. We didn't find it necessarily exciting but it offers some colourful photo opportunities as the area is full of old buildings and a variety of shops selling pottery, furniture, woodcarvings etc.

We planned to visit the World Peace Pagoda and Sarangkot, but unfortunately, the misty and polluted weather wouldn't have allowed us to do so.

However, we still had a fantastic time exploring the lakeside area and enjoying the views and shopping while waiting for the sunset to take a boat tour.

sunset boat tour 

To get the best colours and views on the Pewa Lake we waited sunset to treat ourselves a one-hour boat tour with for 900 rupees. 

​Despite the city noise still being in the background, we still enjoyed the romantic colors of the sunset and the surrounding nature.

For dinner, we opted for the Harbour Hotel Restaurant as we weren't feeling quite up for something heavy.

8. and 9. DAY kathmandu

8th Day on travel

After our longest bus trip in Nepal (almost 11 hours) we were left outside of Kathmandu to take a taxi instead of arriving to Thamel.  We arrived at 19.00 to our hotel and after freshening up we went to have a quick souvenir shopping in Thamel and had our dinner in a nice garden atmosphere at the Dechenling Garden Restaurant. 

9 th day
durbar square&thamel

We enjoyed the extension of our Durbar Square entrance visa on our return. Took more pictures, visited Kumari again. Thenpassed almost all day in Thamel Area shopping

LAST EVENING IN NEPAL
​Pashupatinath temple

I am glad we left the must-see Pashupatinath Temple, as it is a quite strong spiritual experience. 
 We took an IDrive from Thamel to Pashupatinath Temple. The cremation ceremonies are held 24 hrs but the gates are open for visitors from 9.30 a.m. till 09.00 p.m. We were surprised and shocked by the number of cremation ceremonies and the amount of smog. We were glad we brought with us FFP masks. 
Like in Pokhara, also here every day at sunset they hold Aarti Ceremony. Since it was a Saturday night, we couldn't find a close spot to watch the ceremony comfortably. 
Many people got early to take their seats on the other side of the riverbank to watch first the cremations and then Aarti Ceremony. 
We enjoyed observing the beautiful temple, the Sadhus (the Holy Men with long beards and make up in colorful cloths, the people singing and dancing with the religious music and many monkeys playing around. 
There were thousands of people, so we were worried to not to be able to find a taxi if we waited till the end and left a little early.